You've found a great deal on a JDM transmission. The seller mentions "pull type clutch" and you're not sure what that means. Order the wrong clutch kit and you'll waste money, face more downtime, and need another transmission removal. Push and pull type clutches work differently, aren't interchangeable, and require specific parts. Understanding the difference helps you buy the right components the first time.
Key takeaways
- Push and pull clutches operate in opposite directions and need different parts
- Most JDM turbo transmissions through 2005 use pull type systems
- The slave cylinder position tells you which type you have
- Mixing types requires specific conversion kits and extra components
- Buying the wrong clutch kit means removing the transmission again
What this actually means
In a push-type clutch, when the clutch pedal is pressed, the clutch release bearing pushes on the diaphragm spring and the pressure plate releases the clutch friction disc. In a pull-type clutch, when the clutch pedal is pressed, the clutch release bearing pulls the diaphragm spring and the pressure plate releases the clutch friction disc.
The names describe how the bearing acts on the pressure plate. Push types push forward, pull types pull backward. Both separate the clutch disc from the flywheel so you can shift gears—just through opposite motions.
Press the clutch pedal in a push type and a bearing moves forward against spring fingers. The bearing only touches the spring when your foot is on the pedal.
Pull types attach differently. The bearing clips directly to the spring fingers. Pressing the pedal pulls the bearing backward, releasing the pressure. The throw-out bearing is always spinning when the engine runs because it stays attached to the pressure plate.
This constant spinning is why pull-type TOB (throw-out bearing) failures happen more frequently in dusty environments or high-mileage applications.
Which signs matter most
Check where the slave cylinder mounts
Look for the slave cylinder on the transmission bellhousing. Front mount? That's the push type. Rear mount (closer to the firewall)? Pull type.
Look for model year patterns
Most factory turbo transmissions through 2005/2006 use pull type systems. Later turbo models switched to push type around 2006. Some early 2005 models got push types despite being "2005 spec"—the changeover wasn't clean.
Examine the bearing when visible
Pull-type bearings have a clip ring for attachment. Push-type bearings slide onto a sleeve without clips.
When should you be concerned
Ordering clutch kits
Ordering based on your car's year without checking the transmission type causes problems. A 2004 turbo clutch won't work in a 2007 turbo transmission—opposite systems despite similar appearance.
Mixing transmission and clutch types
The two types are not interchangeable without changing the transmission. The parts don't physically connect correctly. Period.
Ignoring the slave cylinder
Swapping between types requires the matching slave cylinder. The cylinders mount in different locations and aren't interchangeable.
Common mistakes to avoid
Assuming "direct swap" means everything works
Sellers advertise JDM transmissions as "direct swaps," which usually means the bolt pattern matches your engine block. It doesn't guarantee clutch system compatibility. Verify the clutch type separately before ordering parts.
Forgetting about constant bearing wear
Pull type throw-out bearings can wear out faster, especially in harsh climates with dust, salt, or extreme temperatures, because they spin constantly. Plan for bearing replacement during routine service—these have become harder to source recently for older JDM models.
Attempting installation without proper preparation
Pull clutches need the bearing clipped onto the pressure plate before the transmission goes in. Miss this step and you're pulling everything apart again.
What you need for different situations
|
Your situation |
Parts needed |
Watch out for |
|
Same type swap (push to push or pull to pull) |
Clutch kit for new transmission, possibly new slave cylinder |
Verify spline count matches |
|
Push to pull conversion |
Pull clutch kit, pull slave cylinder, flywheel |
May need fork modifications |
|
Pull to push conversion |
Push clutch kit, push slave cylinder, flywheel |
Conversion brackets sometimes required |
What to do next
Before buying any transmission
Ask the seller: "Is this push type or pull type?" Don't assume. Get confirmation on the actual transmission you're buying.
Before ordering parts
Check your current system by locating the slave cylinder. Order a complete kit designed for your new transmission's type—pressure plate, disc, bearing, and pilot bearing together.
During installation
For pull types, attach the bearing clip to the pressure plate before installing the transmission. This step can't be done afterward. Have someone help align everything (pull types need more careful positioning).
If converting between types
Budget extra for the conversion kit, new slave cylinder, and possibly new fork or brackets. Conversions work but add complexity. Only convert if you need a specific clutch design unavailable in your transmission's original type.
The conversion question gets more complicated with certain hybrid transmissions (like those mixing components from different years). For those situations, consulting transmission-specific forums often yields better answers than general guidelines.
Best practices for avoiding problems
Verify your transmission type before ordering clutch components. Five minutes checking the slave cylinder position saves hours of work and hundreds in returned parts. Match your clutch kit to your transmission type, not your car's year. Transmissions from the same model year can use different clutch types depending on turbo versus non-turbo configuration. And plan for bearing wear with pull types. These bearings spin constantly and wear faster than push types that only engage when you press the pedal.
Getting it right
Push and pull clutches do the same job through opposite mechanisms. The difference affects which parts you need and how they install.
Checking your transmission's slave cylinder position takes minutes and tells you exactly which type you have. Order the matching clutch kit, slave cylinder, and any needed conversion parts before starting work.
That said, the correct parts install smoothly while wrong parts simply won't fit. Earlier we mentioned that the two types aren't interchangeable—but it's worth noting that some conversion kits blur this line. These kits work, though they add steps most swaps don't require. For straightforward replacements, matching your transmission's original clutch type remains the simpler path.
Need help identifying your clutch type?
If you're unsure which type your transmission uses or which parts you need, our team can help you identify the correct components before you order. This avoids compatibility problems and wasted time.
Contact us for personalized advice.